Exploring the Allure of Tamuda Bay
Wandering through the winding streets of the medina, savoring traditional flavors in a riad, disconnecting while gazing at the Alboran Sea from a luxurious villa, and breathing in the tranquility of this stunning northern Moroccan region is an experience unlike any other. Accompanying us on this journey is none other than top model Laura Ponte, whose connection to Morocco runs deep. "Morocco is a place where I once envisioned a life, and now I enjoy it in different times. I feel it has a soul where I recognize myself. Here, I could exist without conditions," Laura shares, her gaze drifting repeatedly towards the turquoise waters of the Alboran Sea, which bathes this area often referred to as the Moroccan Costa del Sol, a favorite retreat for the royal family during the summer months. We find ourselves in Tamuda Bay, approximately 20 kilometers south of Ceuta and a similar distance from Tétouan, the second largest city in northern Morocco. Here, we join Laura in exploring the most magical corners of this enchanting locale.
Laura reflects on her first encounter with Morocco, recalling, "The first city I visited was Casablanca when I was around 20 or 21 years old for a fashion editorial. Who would have imagined the bond I would form with this place?" Since then, she has explored Marrakech, where she spent considerable time and even considered opening her own riad, as well as Tangier, Rabat, and of course, Tétouan. "You know what has always happened to me? I feel like I have been here before, as if it were part of my story. Everything feels very close to me. That’s why I navigate this country as if I were from here," she explains. This sentiment is palpable as we witness her fluid movement through the streets of Tétouan, navigating between shops and historical buildings in the Ensanche neighborhood, and observing the immediate rapport she establishes with passersby in the labyrinthine streets of the medina, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. "What attracts me most about a country when I visit is its people and the way of life. I’m not one for monuments or ticking off tourist lists; I prefer to get lost and discover. And this city invites that," she adds.
A Luxurious Retreat: Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay
The Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay (203 Route de Fnideq) stands as a luxurious oasis, chosen as our spring getaway haven. Spanning 10 hectares, with a private beach of 700 meters and expansive gardens designed by landscape architect Luis Vallejo, the hotel features small buildings adorned in sandy tones, showcasing a harmonious blend of Mediterranean and Moroccan styles. The space includes a grand lobby with large windows and lounges that lead directly to the sea, 55 exclusive suites and villas ranging from 80 to 1,700 square meters, three restaurants led by Michelin-starred chefs Quique Dacosta, Éric Frechon, and the Alajmo brothers, two bars, and even a Medi-Spa over 4,000 square meters dedicated to relaxation and rejuvenation. "I have always loved hotel life. Observing guests, chatting with staff... Everyone here is so friendly and approachable. I adore the smiles, their humility, and their authenticity," Laura confesses.
After recharging with a traditional Moroccan breakfast featuring classic mint tea and various breads, we set off for M'diq, historically known as El Rincón, as it was part of the Spanish protectorate until 1956. This charming fishing village, located south of Tétouan, boasts a long seafront promenade painted in white and blue, lined with shops and restaurants ranging from small local businesses to international offerings like La Méditerranée Tamuda Bay by Robuchon, where one can indulge in dishes featuring the finest fish and seafood. In the heart of M'diq, various alleys emerge from the main square, filled with barbershops, bakeries, and cafés reminiscent of the 50s and 60s, such as Café Zekri (Av. Mohamed V), along with tourist shops, curiosity bazaars like Salon d’Art Antikka (Av. La Marche Verte), and eateries such as Fruit de Mer and Mediterráneo, where fried fish reigns supreme. "When I go out to eat, I always ask the staff what I should try. They know the menu best and are most interested in ensuring you savor the tastiest or highest quality product of the day. My family has always fostered a culture of quality produce, so I know exactly when fish is good. And here, I have tasted delicious recipes," the model reminisces.
With the scent of saltwater lingering on our skin, we head towards Bab Ruah, one of the seven gates leading into the medina of Tétouan. This southernmost gate provides direct access from Hassan II Square, bridging the Ensanche neighborhood—designed during the Spanish protectorate and home to cultural landmarks such as the historic Cinema Teatro Español and the Instituto Cervantes—and the ancient city. Here, the Royal Palace stands as one of the city's most iconic constructions. Upon entering the medina, we find ourselves in the jewelry and artisan area, but turning right from the entrance leads us to El Quds, a street in the Jewish quarter filled with stalls selling nuts and traditional Moroccan sweets. We stop at Riad Dalia (Place Ouessaa, 25), just five minutes from the Tétouan Modern Art Center, a restored 19th-century palace with exquisite decor where we enjoy a delightful tea while listening to live gnawa music, a genre rooted in the slave songs of sub-Saharan Africa, recognized as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2019.
The best way to appreciate the medina of Tétouan, with its intact Andalusian influence, is to walk aimlessly, allowing oneself to be led by its diverse spots, from food stalls to clothing and leather goods shops, discovering intriguing local haunts like Issa café (Pl. Lebbadi), where neighbors engage in lively conversations accompanied by traditional music, along with the numerous fountains fed by 13 springs, mosques such as Yamma El Quebir, or the Isaac Bengualid synagogue situated in the Jewish district. "Although I am now a vegetarian, I used to love the spiced meat they prepare here slowly... But I still enjoy vegetable pastillas, tagines, couscous, and everything made with dates," the Galician top model affirms. To sample these delights, we make a stop at Blanco Riad (Zawiya Kadiria, 25), located in a 18th-century house featuring a patio, original columns, mosaics, doors, and arches; it also boasts a rooftop with views of the Tétouan Citadel and the surrounding mountains, providing a restaurant capable of seating 80 guests, offering traditional Moroccan dishes with a modern twist.
Among the highlights of their menu are roasted kid with potato, beef tagine with green beans, fish pastilla, or red mullet with tapenade. If you prefer something more classic, Palace Bouhlal (Jamaa Kebir, 48) is an excellent choice for couscous. If you haven't found the ideal souvenir amidst the medina’s offerings, you will surely discover it at the Village Artisanal, located along the road connecting M'diq and Tamuda Bay, featuring dozens of stalls selling both classic and modern ceramics. "I love investing in handicrafts, in pieces that reflect artisanal skill. And here, it’s very easy to find them," Laura states. "In Morocco, I breathe peace, and I feel that the energy is balanced. I will never tire of returning." And neither will we.
As reported by elle.com.
