Edmond Doutté (1867–1926) was a prominent French anthropologist and Arabist, recognized for his significant contributions to colonial sociology in the Maghreb during the early 20th century. Among his notable works is the book "Marrakech" (Paris, 1905), which serves as a comprehensive account of his missions in Morocco, blending sociological and anthropological observations. Within this book, he dedicates approximately twelve pages to his visit to Boulaouane and its surroundings in 1901, originating from Azemmour. His expedition comprised eight individuals equipped with supplies and provisions, including two horses, five mules, and two donkeys. Additionally, Doutté drew upon earlier writings by the German geographer Theobald Fischer (1846–1910) concerning the same region.
To retrace Doutté's path to Boulaouane, we accompanied Jilali Sajai, a young professor and author of an upcoming book in Arabic about the history of Boulaouane. Hailing from the area, Sajai has traversed this route multiple times. The Kasbah of Boulaouane, constructed in 1710 under the orders of Sultan Moulay Ismail, stands as a towering historical fortress overlooking a bend in the Oum er-Rbi River. The walls of the kasbah are built from hewn stone and represent a strategic location for securing royal routes, characterized by its defensive architecture.
In his aforementioned book, Doutté recounts his journey under the title "The Route from Azemmour to Boulaouane," meticulously noting the timing of the expedition with his team. They departed from Azemmour on the morning of June 7, crossing through the lands of the Hawzia and the Awlad Farraj, passing by Khritat and Sidi Mohammed al-Zahir, then through the villages of Awlad Si Amer and Awlad Si Amara, and finally reaching the shrine of Sidi Amara al-Shluh. After crossing the marsh of Mechrat al-Karma, they finally arrived at the Kasbah of Boulaouane.
The kasbah is located approximately twelve kilometers from the current administrative center of Boulaouane, a distance we covered by car. We initially took the road to Al-Awnat before turning onto a road marked with a sign that read "Boulaouane" in both Arabic and French. The paved road, marked by some potholes, wound between potato fields and vineyards, an area that our guide Jilali Sajai knows well.
Upon reaching Mechrat al-Karma, Doutté and his team found the river completely flooded, making it impossible to cross without the use of rafts reinforced with inflated leather skins. Locals inquired about their reason for passing, and when Doutté explained his desire to visit the kasbah visible on the opposite bank, they responded, “Why would you want to cross the river twice?” At that moment, Doutté realized his mistake: the kasbah was not on the right bank, but rather on the left bank where he was standing. Here, the river makes a sharp S-shaped bend, requiring two crossings due to the absence of a bridge. The kasbah is only about three kilometers away from the marsh in a straight line.
To avoid transporting their gear across the rafts, Doutté and his team opted to detour around the peninsula on foot, a route that took an hour and was described by him as "exhausting," yet less challenging than crossing the river twice. When we arrived approximately one hundred meters from the fortress, we paused to admire this historical landmark, following Doutté's footsteps. He notes on page 216 of his book Marrakech that he was impressed by the view from that distance: the kasbah's location on a steep hill and its high crenellated walls. His team decided to spend the evening of their arrival and the next morning there before crossing the Oum er-Rbi towards the Chaouia region. During their stay, Doutté and his team began to sketch a plan of the kasbah, which he described as "approximate" due to the lack of precise measuring tools.
Our host, Jilali Sajai, explained that Doutté's team pitched their tents on the night of June 8, 1901, in front of the kasbah’s entrance, where a spacious courtyard is located. Upon our exploration of the kasbah, we noticed that about two-thirds of the buildings and walls are in a state of disrepair, which Doutté did not mention during his visit in 1901. In the eastern corner, the mosque with its minaret remains in a relatively good condition. Our companion indicated that the mosque and its mihrab underwent renovations likely dating back to the 1950s.
During our visit, a car passed from the kasbah’s entrance to a settlement known as "Douar al-Kasbah," indicating that the area is used as a regular passage for residents. To facilitate residents' access to their homes, a new opening was created in the northern wall, which did not exist during Doutté's time, raising concerns about the preservation of this historical site.
The walls are built from limestone concrete over a foundation of stone, using traditional methods that ensure durability. Evidence of the wooden molds used in construction is visible, employing techniques similar to rammed earth or adobe building. We also observed circular openings in the ground, which Doutté described as deep storage pits. From the top of the eastern wall, we could see a path leading down to an orange grove, part of which has collapsed. We also found remnants of black and white pottery and nearly faded Arabic inscriptions. Doutté noted engravings in the Sultan's house repeating the phrase: "The everlasting fire."
The current condition of the kasbah urgently calls for intervention to protect it. Except for its beautiful façade, the interior suffers from significant deterioration. Despite repeated appeals, no effective measures have been taken for its rescue. How can one imagine Boulaouane without its kasbah, which is the essence of its identity?
This heritage enjoys global recognition, as I mentioned in my book on Boulaouane published in 2025, where this area inspired the contemplative work "The Castle" by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry a century ago.
As reported by hespress.com.
