Exploring the Legacy of Edmond Doutté in Moroccan Anthropology
Edmond Doutté (1867–1926) was a prominent French anthropologist and Arabist who significantly contributed to colonial sociology in the Maghreb region during the early 20th century. Among his seminal works is the book titled "Marrakech" (Paris, 1905), which serves as a detailed account of his expeditions in Morocco, intertwining both sociological and anthropological observations. Within this text, Doutté dedicates approximately twelve pages to his visit to Boulaouane and its surroundings in the year 1901, beginning his journey from Azemmour. His expedition team consisted of eight individuals equipped with supplies and gear, along with two horses, five mules, and two donkeys. Additionally, Doutté relied on earlier writings from the German geographer Theobald Fischer (1846–1910) regarding the same area, which helped shape his understanding of the landscape.
Retracing Doutté's Journey to Boulaouane
To trace Doutté's route to Boulaouane, we accompanied Jilali Sajai, a young professor and author currently working on a book in Arabic about the history of Boulaouane, who hails from the region and has traversed this path numerous times. The Boulaouane kasbah, constructed in 1710 under the orders of Sultan Moulay Ismail, stands as a historical fortress that overlooks a bend in the Oum Er-Rbia River. The kasbah's walls, made from hewn stones, served as a strategic location for securing royal routes and exhibit a distinct defensive character. In his aforementioned book, Doutté narrates his journey under the title "The Route from Azemmour to Boulaouane," meticulously recording the timing of their expedition. They set off from Azemmour on the morning of June 7, traversing the lands of the Houssa and the Ouled Frej, passing through Khritat and Sidi Mohammed Al-Dahir, then the villages of Ouled Sidi Amr and Ouled Sidi Ammar, reaching the shrine of Sidi Ammar Al-Shluh. After crossing the marsh at Mcharra Al-Karma, they finally arrived at the Boulaouane kasbah.
The kasbah is situated about twelve kilometers from the current administrative center of Boulaouane, a distance we covered by car. We initially took the Aounat road and then turned onto the road marked with a sign indicating "Boulaouane" in both Arabic and French. The paved road, which had some potholes, wound between potato fields and vineyards, an area well-known to our guide Jilali Sajai. Upon reaching Mcharra Al-Karma, Doutté and his team found the river brimming with water, making it impossible to cross without using rafts supported by inflated leather skins. Locals inquired about their journey, and when Doutté explained his desire to visit the kasbah visible on the opposite bank, they questioned, "Why do you want to cross the river twice?" It was at this moment that Doutté realized his mistake: the kasbah was not on the right bank, but rather on the left bank where he stood. Here, the river takes a sharp S-shaped bend, and the direct route would require crossing it twice due to the absence of a bridge. The distance between the kasbah and the marsh was only about three kilometers in a straight line.
To avoid transporting their belongings across the river, Doutté and his team opted to circumvent the peninsula by land, a route that took an hour to walk and which he described as "exhausting," yet less arduous than crossing the river twice. Upon reaching approximately one hundred meters from the fortress, we paused to admire this historical monument, following in Doutté's footsteps. He noted on page 216 of his book Marrakech that he was struck by the view from that distance: the kasbah's location atop a steep incline and its high crenellated walls. His team decided to spend the evening of their arrival and the following morning there before crossing the Oum Er-Rbia toward the Chaouia region. During their stay, Doutté and his team began sketching a plan of the kasbah, which he described as "approximate" due to the lack of precise measuring tools. Our host, Jilali Sajai, informed us that Doutté's team set up their tents on the night of June 8, 1901, in front of the kasbah's entrance, where a spacious courtyard exists. Inside the kasbah, we observed that about two-thirds of the buildings and walls are in a state of disrepair, a level of decay that Doutté did not mention during his visit in 1901. In the eastern corner, the mosque with its minaret remains in relatively good condition. Our companion explained that the mosque and the mihrab underwent an old restoration likely dating back to the 1950s.
During our visit, a vehicle passed from the entrance of the kasbah toward a nearby settlement known as "Douar Al-Kasbah," indicating that the location is still used as a common passage for residents. In order for residents to access their homes, a new opening was created in the northern wall, which did not exist during Doutté's time, raising concerns about the preservation of this historical site. The walls were built from limestone concrete over a foundation of stones, employing traditional methods that ensure durability. The traces of wooden molds used in the construction are evident, employing a technique similar to rammed earth or tabia. We also noticed circular openings in the ground, which Doutté described as deep storage rooms. From atop the eastern wall, we observed a path descending toward an orange grove, part of which had collapsed. We also discovered remnants of black and white pottery, as well as nearly faded Arabic inscriptions. Doutté had pointed out inscriptions in the Sultan's house that repeated the phrase: "The Everlasting Fire."
The current state of the kasbah necessitates immediate intervention to protect it. Aside from its beautiful façade, the interior suffers from significant deterioration. Despite repeated calls for action, no effective measures have been taken for its rescue. How can one envision Boulaouane without its kasbah, which is the essence of its identity? This heritage boasts international acclaim, a fact I referenced in my book about Boulaouane published in 2025, wherein I noted that this area inspired Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's reflective work "The Castle" nearly a century ago.
As reported by hespress.com.
