Unveiling the Legacy of Edmond Duthie in Boulaouane
Edmond Duthie (1867–1926) was a prominent French anthropologist and Arabist, recognized for his significant contributions to colonial sociology in the Maghreb region during the early 20th century. Among his numerous scholarly works is the book titled "Marrakech" (published in Paris in 1905), which serves as a detailed account of his missions in Morocco, intertwining both sociological and anthropological observations. In this text, Duthie dedicates approximately twelve pages to his visit to Boulaouane and its surroundings in 1901, which commenced from Azemmour. His expedition comprised a team of eight individuals equipped with necessary supplies, alongside two horses, five mules, and two donkeys. Duthie also relied on prior writings from the German geographer Theobald Fischer (1846–1910) regarding the same area, showcasing the interplay of scholarly research and field exploration.
To trace the path taken by Duthie to Boulaouane, we accompanied Jilali Sajji, a young professor and author of an upcoming book in Arabic about the history of Boulaouane. Hailing from the region, Sajji has traversed this route numerous times, offering valuable insights into the historical significance of the expedition. The Boulaouane Kasbah, constructed in 1710 under the orders of Sultan Moulay Ismail, stands as a towering historical fortress overlooking a bend of the Oum Er-Rbia River. The walls of the kasbah are built from hewn stones, representing a strategic location for securing royal routes, characterized by its defensive architecture.
The Journey from Azemmour to Boulaouane: A Detailed Account
In his aforementioned book, Duthie narrates his journey under the title "The Path from Azemmour to Boulaouane," meticulously recording the timing of his expedition with his team. They embarked from Azemmour on the morning of June 7, traversing through the lands of the Hawzia and Oulad Ferja, passing by Kharitat and Sidi Mohammed Al-Dahir, then through the douars of Oulad Si Amer and Oulad Si Amara, and finally reaching the shrine of Sidi Amara Al-Shalah. After crossing the marsh of Mcharra Al-Karma, they eventually arrived at the Kasbah of Boulaouane.
The kasbah is situated approximately twelve kilometers away from the current administrative center of Boulaouane, a distance we covered by car. Initially, we took the road towards Al-Aounat, then turned onto a road marked with a sign reading "Boulaouane" in both Arabic and French. The paved road, albeit with some potholes, wound through fields of potatoes and vineyards, familiar terrain for our guide, Jilali Sajji.
Upon reaching Mcharra Al-Karma, Duthie and his team found the river swollen, making crossing possible only through rafts reinforced with air-filled leather skins. Local residents inquired about their crossing intentions, and when Duthie explained his desire to visit the kasbah visible on the opposite bank, they asked, "Why do you wish to cross the river twice?" It was then that Duthie realized his mistake: the kasbah was not on the right bank, but rather on the left bank where he stood. Here, the river forms a sharp S-shaped bend, necessitating two crossings due to the absence of a bridge. The kasbah is merely three kilometers away from the marsh in a straight line.
To avoid transporting their belongings via rafts, Duthie and his team opted to circumvent the peninsula by land, a route they described as "exhausting," yet less cumbersome than crossing the river twice. As we approached within a hundred meters of the fort, we paused to reflect on this historical monument, following in Duthie's footsteps. He notes on page 216 of his book Marrakech that he was captivated by the view from that distance: the kasbah's location atop a steep incline, with its high crenellated walls. His team decided to spend the evening of their arrival and the following morning there before crossing the Oum Er-Rbia towards the Chaouia region. During their stay, Duthie and his team began sketching a plan of the kasbah, although he described it as "approximate" due to the lack of precise measuring tools.
According to our host, Jilali Sajji, Duthie's team set up camp on the night of June 8, 1901, in front of the kasbah's entrance, where a spacious courtyard exists. We noticed inside the kasbah that about two-thirds of the buildings and walls are in a state of disrepair, a condition Duthie did not mention during his visit in 1901. In the eastern corner, the mosque with its minaret remains in relatively good condition, and our guide indicated that the mosque and mihrab underwent an ancient restoration likely dating back to the 1950s.
During our visit, a vehicle passed through the entrance of the kasbah towards a settlement known as "Douar Al-Kasbah," indicating that the site is utilized as a regular thoroughfare for residents. To facilitate access for inhabitants to their homes, a new opening was created in the northern wall, which did not exist during Duthie's time, raising concerns about the preservation of this historical monument. The walls are constructed from lime concrete over a foundation of stones, using traditional methods that ensure durability. We also observed circular openings in the ground, described by Duthie as deep storage areas. From atop the eastern wall, we spotted a pathway descending towards an orange orchard, part of which has collapsed. We also discovered remnants of black and white pottery, along with nearly faded Arabic inscriptions. Duthie had noted inscriptions in the Sultan’s house repeating the phrase: “The enduring fire.”
The current condition of the kasbah calls for urgent intervention to protect it. Aside from its beautiful façade, the interior suffers from significant deterioration. Despite repeated demands for action, no effective measures have been undertaken for its rescue. How can one envision Boulaouane without its kasbah, the very essence of its identity? This heritage possesses international significance, and I highlighted this in my book about Boulaouane published in 2025, as this area inspired the reflective work "The Castle" by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry a century ago.
As reported by hespress.com.
