The Arrival of the Train: A New Era for Morocco
The terms ‘train,’ ‘land boat,’ ‘machine,’ and ‘Tangier-Fes’ have become colloquial expressions among Moroccans, symbolizing a singular invention that significantly altered travel, commerce, and the interconnection of cities: the train. The introduction of the railway to Morocco was not merely the arrival of a new mode of transportation; it marked a profound transformation that the country underwent at the turn of the 20th century. The railways were laden with promises of modernization, speed, and urban connectivity, yet they were also intertwined with European competition over Morocco and the military and economic ambitions of colonial powers. For many early Moroccans, the train represented not just a strange machine gliding over iron tracks but a symbol of a rapidly advancing European world and the expanding foreign influence within their own country.
The Political Debate Surrounding the Railway
The advent of railways in Morocco was steeped in political discourse from the outset. The critical questions were: who would build the tracks, for what purpose, and who would control the routes? Prior to its establishment, the concept of the train provoked widespread debate. In the late 19th century, as European powers vied for dominance in Morocco, modern communication methods, including telegraphs and railways, were viewed by some officials and scholars as instruments of this expansion. The Moroccan historian Ahmed Ben Khalid Al-Nasiri, author of "Al-Istiqsa," provides a clear example of this concern. He recounted how during European delegations’ visits to the Sultan, the French spoke of ‘land boats’ and telegraphs, only for him to comment that what was presented as beneficial for Muslims and Christians could, in his opinion, signify 'great harm.' This rejection was not an outright dismissal of technology itself but rather an expression of fear regarding its potential use to invade and dominate the country.
These fears were not unfounded; the railways that would later spread across Morocco initially served military movements and the transport of equipment and supplies before eventually evolving into networks for the transportation of goods and passengers. This duality underscores the complex relationship between technological advancement and colonial interests.
A notable chapter in the history of Moroccan railways, which illustrates the link between the train and colonial expansion, occurred in Casablanca in 1907. During the construction of the Casablanca port, a narrow gauge railway was established to transport stones from black rock quarries to the port site. The railway's path ran alongside the Sidi Belyout cemetery, inciting widespread outrage among locals. On July 30, 1907, a ‘Decauville’ train was attacked, resulting in the deaths of nine European workers involved in the project. This incident was subsequently used as a pretext for French military intervention, leading to a violent naval bombardment of Casablanca in August of the same year, followed by the landing of troops and the occupation of the city. Thus, one of the earliest railway experiences in Morocco became intertwined with one of the bloodiest episodes in colonial history, revealing that the railway was part of a broader economic project tied to the port, which served as a gateway for European influence, while the city rapidly transformed into a strategic economic center.
In contrast to Casablanca's railway experience, Marrakech's encounter with trains came later, yet it too was linked to the same military and strategic projects. Reaching the red city meant traversing the vast distance south of Casablanca towards Tadla and Rahamna, a logistical challenge in an era when transportation was largely reliant on animals, caravans, and carts. The train's introduction southward through a 60 cm network revolutionized travel, culminating in the September 1919 arrival of the Casablanca-Marrakech line at Ben Guerir, before finally reaching Marrakech in 1920.
On May 20, 1920, the first train arrived from Casablanca to Marrakech, marking an exceptional moment in the city’s history. Imagine Marrakech, accustomed to the sounds of animals and caravans, hearing for the first time the chugging sound of a steam locomotive approaching—a massive iron machine moving along tracks, emitting smoke and noise, breaking the silence that had been previously traversed only by animals. Historical records indicate that the train arrived at the Marrakech station situated at the foot of Jbel Gueliz, which was not the later-known station but a different facility that preceded the iconic station of Marrakech.
Despite the train's relatively slow speed by today’s standards, averaging about 15 to 20 kilometers per hour, its significance extended beyond mere transportation speed. What once took hours or an entire day via animals was now achievable in a fraction of the time. Larger quantities of goods could be transported, and military and administrative centers became interconnected in ways that were previously impossible. This encapsulates the true essence of the train's early role in Morocco: it was not merely a means of travel but a tool for reorganizing the landscape.
The arrival of the train coincided with Gueliz’s transformation into a new space beyond the old city walls. Historical sources reveal that the first train station in Marrakech was constructed in 1923, close to the site of the later station in the Gueliz area. Gueliz itself gradually evolved from a marginal space into a new urban and economic center, as the train not only entered Marrakech but also contributed to the city’s reorganization around a new axis beyond its walls. By November 1928, Marrakech entered a new phase. After years of operating the 60 cm network, the standard gauge railway finally reached the city, linking Marrakech to the main railway network.
Historical documents indicate that the official inauguration of the Casablanca-Marrakech line took place in November 1928, while passenger services began gradually, coinciding with the cessation of operations on the 60 cm line between the Tunisian commander and Marrakech. This marked a significant distinction between a ‘military train reaching Marrakech’ and a ‘civilian train integrating Marrakech into a national network.’ The train no longer served merely as a means of transporting equipment; it became a vehicle for transporting people and goods, thereby broadening the scope of commercial and population movement.
The railway transformed Marrakech’s landscape significantly. It did not merely pass through the city; it created new routes connecting the station to industrial areas, warehouses, and construction material extraction sites. Branch lines served the industrial region southwest of Gueliz, while some routes were linked to the transport of stones extracted from Jbel Gueliz, which provided building materials for the new city.
The train traversed the Gueliz surroundings, then branched out towards streets that eventually became part of the modern city network, approaching the Harti area and Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Thus, the sound of the train became a component of Marrakech’s daily life, not only outside the city but also within its urban fabric.
It is important to recall that the train was not always confined to the current station; historical memory often overlooks that the old tracks penetrated areas known today by different names. Facilities, stations, and warehouses associated with cargo transport once existed. Near Gueliz, the railway was linked to factories and warehouses, while other lines facilitated the transport of construction materials.
The train tracks approached the Harti area and headed towards the city, eventually reaching the vicinity of Jemaa el-Fnaa. Today’s streets conceal the memory of train tracks that once passed through before the rails disappeared and the roads and buildings transformed into the familiar landscape.
As for the name ‘Tangier-Fes,’ it was associated with the Tangier-Fes line, which represented a different project than the initial Marrakech-Casablanca military network. The French-Spanish railway company responsible for the Tangier-Fes line was established in 1916, with gradual completion throughout the 1920s. This route appears in official documents of the era as a project led by a French-Spanish private company. Thus, ‘Tangier-Fes’ was not a general name for all Moroccan trains but rather a popular term for a specific line that became deeply embedded in Moroccan consciousness.
When the first train arrived in Marrakech in 1920, few, if any, anticipated the far-reaching impact that this machine would have beyond simply reaching its destination. However, the train contributed to the emergence of a new Marrakech—a city whose economic appeal stretched towards Gueliz, becoming more connected to Casablanca and northern cities. The arrival of travelers from outside the city became linked to the station rather than caravans. Nearly a century later, the locomotives have evolved, the 60 cm lines have disappeared, and new stations have emerged, culminating in the inauguration of the modern Marrakech station in 2008, which now forms part of the contemporary city’s landscape. Yet beneath the asphalt, buildings, and streets lies another Marrakech—the Marrakech that once heard the train whistle as it approached Gueliz, saw smoke rising over the city, and gathered to witness the ‘land boat’ arriving from afar.
As reported by almarrakchia.net.